"The Kabira Festival"

Musings from a Recliner – The Kabira Festival  – 27th Nov 2019 ~ Lally Virk

 "THE KABIRA FESTIVAL"

(22nd Nov – 24th Nov 2019)

Jasmin and I were very fortunate to be invited as delegates for the “Kabira Festival”, held in Varanasi from 22nd Nov to 24th Nov 19.

The “Kabira Festival” is an annual event held on the banks of the Ganga in Varanasi, in the month of November. It is a meticulously curated festival held over three days to celebrate the enigma that was “Kabir”. 

Before I enter the Festival proper, a word on “Kabir, the poet”.

Chalti Chakki Dekh Kar,

Diya Kabira Roye

Do Paatan Ke Beech Mein,

Sabit Bacha Na Koye

(Translation: Kabir says, Seeing the rotating grinding stones of the mill, the light inside cries. No one survives once put between the grinding stones.)

(Meaning: Kabir sees the two grinding stones as the duality that we live in. Heaven and earth, Good and Bad, Male and Female, High and Low - all around there is duality. This play of opposites, this rotating mill (Chalti Chakki) crushes everyone. No one is saved from in its powerful grip. Whoever enters this duality, is crushed. No one survives. Kabir cries because rarely, if ever, does one see the oneness, the divinity, behind the duality.)

 Kabir, the 15th Century, Indian Mystic, Poet & Saint.

 Kabir, was a 15th century Indian mystic poet and saint whose writings were influenced by the Bhakti movement. He, as most of us are aware was a bhakti poet of the earth. He became a spiritual leader among his men living in India’s spiritual centre, the oldest town of the world, Varanasi or Banaras. His ideas were akin to Sufi (Muslim ascetic and mystic) and Baul (Musical tradition). His poetry was spiritually rich, esoteric and mystic. His was a simple life on earth, yet touching the sky with enormous spiritual heights. 

Sant Kabir remained a legend and a mystery in his life time and beyond. His poetry was based on his mystic, spiritual vision and lifelong faith on God. Many of his poems are in the form of songs. Disciple of a great Hindu pundit, preacher and philosopher-reformer, Sant Ramananda, he was steeped in Hindu philosophy. With esoteric practices he was at the focal point of the Bhakti cult. Claimed by both Hindu and the Muslim community as a man born with their religion, he used to say, “I am the child of Allah and of Ram.” He also said that he was neither a Hindu nor a Musalman. Temple and Mosque, idol and holy water, scriptures and priests were usually renounced by him. He cared little whether people knew him as a Brahmin or a Mohammedan, a Sufi or a Vedantin, a Vaishnavite or a Ramanandi. His way of life and preaching were different from any orthodox religion in spite of his deep faith in God. He had a large number of followers in his life time who were called Kabirpanthi. Kabir Panth, still has over a million followers, it is said.

An 1825 CE painting depicting Kabir weaving. 

(Pic courtesy, Wikipedia)

Before I go back to the festival proper, allow me to share some interesting bits I gathered about the extremely rich cultural history of this ancient city, Varanasi.

"Woh sukun nahin milta kisi dawa ya duwa sé"
Jo sukun milta hai Banares ki aab o hawa sé"

(Translation: One cannot find such peace with any medicine or blessings, as one finds in the atmosphere of Banares)

 Varanasi – the City of Life & Death, Suffering & Liberty.

Varanasi, also called Benares, Banaras, or Kashi, is a city located in the South-Eastern part of the State of Uttar Pradesh, in Northern India. It is located on the left bank of the Ganges (Ganga) River and is one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism.

Varanasi was the capital of the kingdom of Kashi during the time of the Buddha (6th century BCE), who gave his first sermon nearby at Sarnath. The city remained a centre of religious, educational, and artistic activities as attested by the celebrated Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuanzang, who visited it in about 635 CE and said that the city extended for about 3 miles (5 km) along the western bank of the Ganges.

Varanasi subsequently declined during three centuries of Muslim occupation, beginning in 1194. Many of the city’s Hindu temples were destroyed during the period of Muslim rule, and learned scholars fled to other parts of the country. The Mughal emperor Akbar in the 16th century brought some relief to the city’s religious and cultural activities. There was another setback during the reign of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in the late 17th century, but later the Marathas sponsored a new revival. Varanasi became an independent kingdom in the 18th century, and under subsequent British rule it remained a commercial and religious centre.
It is believed that the sacred city of Varanasi was founded by God himself. It is the abode of Shiva. Some of the greatest Indian poets, like Tulsi, Kabir, RaviDas lived in Varanasi. 

Varanasi, the union of opposites, is considered to be one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. One of the most sacred pilgrimages to the Hindus, Varanasi offers a very strong and varied vibrancy in its culture. From Ghats to Ganges, temples to a pedestrianised maze of alleys or ‘galis’, beautiful sunrises to the Ganga Aarti (a hindu prayer ritual) which is held every evening, Varanasi exudes the spirit of beauty, magic and the old world charm.

River Ganga – Eternal flows the Ganges.

Most sacred of the rivers in India, the Ganga, is personified as the ‘Goddess Ganges’. 

An enduring legend has it that the Goddess descended upon earth for King Bhagirath, who prayed for the liberation of the souls of his ancestors.

Bhagirathi, the main tributary of Ganges arises at the foot of the Gangotri Glacier at Gomukh, at an elevation of 3892 mts (12769 ft). As she flows down the Himalayas, she is joined by other rivers in spectacular confluences to join Alaknanda at Devprayag and flows down to the plains as Ganges.

A breath-taking crescent along the Ghats at Varanasi, the Ganges all of 2525 km long, traverses many states before offering herself to one of the largest river basins of the world, the Bay of Bengal. All along her travels she is the lifeblood of the North Indian plains and mother of many ancient cities that have birthed on her banks.

Devout Hindus believe that bathing in the holy water of the Ganges cleanses one of sins and paves the way towards Moksha (freedom from the cycle of life and death). Hence the ritual of immersing ashes of the deceased in the holy waters of the river.

The Ganges......and quiet flows the dawn.

(Pic courtesy – Lally Virk).

   

Significance of the Ghats.

It is said that time stands still on the stone steps of the Ghats washed by the holy waters of the Ganga. The Ghats in Varanasi are man-made embankments of stone, centuries old and built to face east, towards the rising Sun. Originally built as access to the river for pilgrims seeking a holy dip to perform sacred rites and religious ceremonies, some sections of the Ghats are dedicated for cremation rites. 

On asking I was told that as of today, there are only two Ghats dedicated for funeral rites and immersing the ashes.

This 8 kms stretch of the river in Varanasi, has 84 Ghats and over 300 temples dedicated to various Hindu deities. Built post 1700 AD, the patrons of the Ghats were of Maratha lineage from the noble houses of the Scindias, Holkars, Bhonsles and Peshwas.

Dashashwamedh Ghat is where the Ganga Aarti, a ritual offering to the Ganges, is performed every evening to intense chanting and beating of cymbals. Believers and travellers from around the Globe flock to participate in this ritual every day throughout the year.

Other Ghats of historic and religious importance are Panch Ganges Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat and Lalita Ghat, to name a few, each of them with a special function and significance.

 

    A view of the Ghats from my boat. 

                                                         (Pic courtesy, Lally Virk).                                                       

   

A view of the Ghats from my boat. 

(Pics courtesy, Lally Virk).

  

Some Prominent Religious Ceremonies in Hinduism:

The Religious aspect of Hinduism, it’s Culture and Traditions are the essence of Varanasi. The City receives more than a million pilgrims each year. In addition, thousands of domestic and foreign tourists flock to the city annually, and tourism-related activities constitute a significant component of the local economy.

To Name a few prominent religious ceremonies:

Tripindi Shradh:

Pishach Mochan Kund is an auspicious place for those who have faith in the concept that the body dies but the soul is immortal and for its peace it is important to perform ‘Shraddha Rituals’, under the guidance of Purohits. In the Hindu religion, it is a ritual that one performs to pay homage to one's 'ancestors', especially to one's dead parents. 

Conceptually, it is a way for people to express a heartfelt gratitude and thanks towards their parents and ancestors, for having helped them to be what they are and praying for their peace. It can also be thought of as a "day of remembrance". It is performed for both the father and mother separately. It is performed on the death anniversary or collectively during the Pitru Paksha or Shraaddha paksha (Fortnight of ancestors), right before Sharad Navaratri in autumn.

During the Pitra Paksha or the fortnight during which shraaddh karma is performed, devout people come from across the country gather at the Pishach Mochan Kund Temple for the same. Pitra Paksha is a 16–lunar day period in the Hindu calendar when Hindus pay homage to their ancestor (Pitrs), especially through food offerings. 

Since long the Pishach Mochan Temple, is the place where troubled spirits are freed if someone in the family has met with an untimely and tragic end. This is also mentioned in Skanda Purana. ‘Tripindi shraaddh’ requires three Brahmins to perform the required ritual. 

Rudra Abhisheka:

It is a ritual of worshipping Lord Shiva in the Rudra form. In this method, the Shivlinga is washed by the water, which continuously keeps pouring on it through a vessel along with the continuous chanting of Vedic mantra called the Rudra Sukhta. In all the Vedic scriptures the Rudra Abhishek puja is considered as the greatest spiritual puja.

Maha Mrityunjaya Mantra:

The Priests perform the Maha Mrityunjaya Puja based on your birth details. It is believed that Maha Mrityunjaya Puja is performed for divine grace and blessings of Lord Maha Mrityunjaya (Lord Shiva), for removal of malefic effects of all Stars, for relief and protection against diseases, ailments and accidents and for relief from misfortune, miseries, troubles and fears.

Baglamukhi Siddhi Jaap:

Baglamukhi Siddhi Jaap is performed to overcome enemies, combat black magic, evil‐eye etc. Sacrifice to Agni brings health, happiness, luck and prosperity. This Jaap is performed to obtain relief from legal problems, and also victory in contests, elections etc. It also performed to avoid accidents, bloodshed and the possibility of untimely or unnatural death.

Kapil Dhara Pind Daan:

Pind Daan and Shraddh are performed at Kashi, Varanasi. It is said that all obstacles in life are smoothened once you perform Pind Daan ritual for your parents or ancestors.

The ‘Sinking Temple’ – Legend has it that this temple was cursed by a Rishi when it was built and hence tilted into the river and looks as if it is sinking but never does. 

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk).

~ Now let me take you to the ‘Kabira Festival’ ~

The Ghats of Varanasi were the chosen venue for this lovely event. 

Varanasi is very well connected by air and most domestic airlines have regular flights going from New Delhi to Varanasi. It is a short one and half hour flight from New Delhi. 

Jasmin and I, took the Vistara 1030 hrs flight and were in our hotel by 1430 hrs. We also returned to New Delhi by the same airline. The flight leaves from Varanasi to New Delhi at a very convenient time of 1530 hrs.

It is an hour long drive from the Varanasi Airport to the Ghats. From the Ghats we were taken to this wonderful palace hotel property by boat. It is about a 20 minute boat ride upstream the River Ganga.

The vehicles can only come to this point. This is the landing place from where one has to get into boats to be taken to this hotel. 

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk). 

Getting into the boat.

                                 

                          

    

Enroute to the Hotel. 

(Pics courtesy, Jasmin & Lally Virk).

Brijrama Palace Heritage Hotel

We stayed in this beautiful heritage property converted into a Hotel known as ‘Brijrama Palace Hotel’. Conveniently perched on the river bank on the Darbanga Ghat, the Brijrama Palace Hotel, is one of the oldest landmarks of Varanasi. The history of the palace dates back to the year 1812, in which it was built by Shridhara Narayana Munshi, the then minister for the estate of Nagpur. In 1915, the Brahmin King of Darbhanga (Bihar) ‘Rameshwar Singh Bahadur’ acquired the palace and the Ghat also came to be known as Darbhanga Ghat. 

On reaching the Darbanga Ghat, one has to climb a steep flight of steps to the hotel. The first sight of the hotel is its historical elevator, installed in 1918, built to help the King of Darbanga climb to the second floor of the palace. This also boasts of being the first elevator in India. 

The architecture and the design of the palace are directly influenced by the erstwhile ruling dynasty of the Marathas. The sandstone walls and pillars graced with Maratha art, accentuate the palace architecture. You may also notice a betel leaf runner along the roof corners of the walls- a signature pattern followed by Marathas during the ancient times.

     
On Checking-in into the Hotel, we were welcomed with a tilak and a rudraksh mala.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                    

                   

                     

(Pics courtesy, Lally Virk.)

 ~ The “Kabira Festival” ~

As brought out earlier, the “Kabira Festival” is an annual event held on the banks of the Ganga in Varanasi, in the month of November. The festival is all about celebrating and reviving the mystic and enigmatic Saint and Poet, Kabir.

Kabir’s philosophy and poetry was all about inclusiveness – and this is what is celebrated in the Kabira Festival over three days, as the delegates are treated to an unforgettable experience of classical music by the leading exponents of the Benares Gharana, Sufi, Dadra, Thumri, Khayal & Ghazal, Pakhwaj & Tabla, essentially capturing the very essence of the pulse of India’s diverse and rich cultural matrix. 

This year, we were fortunate to have some renowned International Artists performing at the event. 

The festival aims to make the delegates embrace the “Kabir” way of life and soak  in sights and sounds of this ancient city over the three days. There are amazing music performances held on the ghats in the early morning hours and in the evening. In the afternoons, one can slip into a reverie with the literature sessions, which attempt to educate the delegates on enigma that was ‘Kabir’. 

The mid-morning took us to the winding alleys of Benares, feeling the beat of history in the curated heritage walk that was organised for the delegates. 

Last, but surely not the least, is the delectable mouth-watering local cuisine which is laid out on the ghats for the delegates on all three days.

 The chosen venues this year were the Guleria Ghats for the morning sessions and Shivala Ghats for the evening sessions. One can only commute by boats to the various ghats.

All this against the backdrop of the ‘Eternal Ganga’. 

  (Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

 There were some amazing ethereal soul-cleansing performances by very talented classical artists. 

Some of the note-worthy performances were by Ustad Kamal Sabri, who represents the seventh generation of the 400 year old illustrious family of sarangi exponents – the Sainia Gharana of Moradabad. 

Shabnam Virmani with Swagath Sivakumar, as she sang the ‘Kabir philosopy’. 

Rakesh Kumar with Sarada Prasan Das on the flute and violin respectively.

Unity Earth with the internationally-renowned, Grammy nominated, British Music Hall of Fame  Reggae legend, Pato Bantaon so very ably assisted by the talented Reggae keyboard artiste Antoinette and the hauntingly beautiful Juliard trained singer- song writer-musician, Kristin Hoffman. 

The talk on ‘Kabir and his Life’ by the Author Purushottam Aggarwal, who researched Kabir for 20 years before he wrote his book, was an eye opener and very interesting.

Personally for me, the pièce de résistance was this mesmerising, breathtakingly captivating performance by the three time Grammy nominee, Pt. Ajay Shankar Prasanna’s ‘Flute Symphony’, which transcended all barriers and put us in a trance. Trust me, at one point of time as the lilting notes of his flute wafted through the air, it actually looked as if the Ganges stopped and stood up to ‘applaud’ him.

Besides these enchanting performances, Jasmin and I were fortunate to witness the famous evening Aarti held in the Dashashwamedh Ghat, from our boat. 

Yes, one ticked off the bucket list.

Evening Aarti at the Dashwamedh Ghat

 ~Curtains Down~

The three days were a whirlwind of activity and were over in the blink of an eye. As I would close my eyes and listen to these enthrallingly, exhilarating performances by all these great classical performers, there were times when I could actually feel the spirits of our ancestors cheering us on. 

On an absolutely lighter note, those are the only 'spirits' permitted in these environs. Since 2014, meat products and alcoholic 'spirits' are prohibited by the Government. :(

We actually felt sad when we checked out of our hotel and sat down in the boat with our luggage, as we bade farewell to the Ghats enroute to the airport. 

It was like leaving all the peace of the flowing waters of the the eternal Ganges, as also a piece of our rich cultural heritage behind, to get back to the hustle and bustle of our lives.

A Vote of Thanks.

The ‘Kabira Festival’ is sponsored by Mahindra Rise. We are thankful to the Mahindra Group's, Mr Jay Shah, Vice President – Head Cultural Outreach.  

A Vote of thanks would be in order to my friend, Mr Sanjoy Roy, who was personally present right through to welcome the guests at each of the venues, and his entire team of 'Teamwork Arts', who curated this stupendous event. 

Last but not the least, a special thanks to Mr Akash Ohri, Executive Director, DLF Ltd.

 Here are glimpses of some of the performances:

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

(Pt. Ajay Prasanna - Flute Symphony)

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

 (Kristin Hoffman - Julliard trained Singer-Songwriter-musician)

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

(Delegates in a trance)

(Unity Earth's reggae Legend Pato Banton)

(Pic courtesy, Lally Virk)

Jeevat Samjhe Jeevat Bujhe,

Jeevat He Karo Aas Jeevat Karam Ki Fansi Na Kaati,

Mue Mukti Ki Aas

(Translation: Kabir says, Alive one sees, alive one knows. Find your liberation while alive. If when alive you do not cut the noose of your attachments, how will there be liberation with death?

(Meaning You need to wake up while you are alive, it is your only chance. You need to drop the ties of attachments to illusory things that bind you in illusion. This can only be done while alive, death is not a liberator.)

Some youtube Links of the performances:

https://youtu.be/5YYLklYqqog - Kabira Festival 2019 - The Photo Album

https://youtu.be/X-kQbdoBpLY - Pt Ajay Prasanna 

https://youtu.be/Es22fj38eYo - Rakesh Kumar with Sarada Prasn Das

A Footnote by the Author:

I would be failing in my duties as a concerned aware citizen if I did not bring out that the holy river of Ganges is, today, threatened by pollution. The danger this poses is not only to humans, but also to animals, among which are more than 140 fish species, 90 amphibian species, reptiles such as the gharial, and mammals such as the South Asian River Dolphin, the last-mentioned two are included in the IUCN's critically endangered list. The levels of faecal coliform bacteria from human waste in the river near Varanasi, are more than a hundred times the Indian government's official limit. The Ganga Action Plan, an environmental initiative to clean up the river, leaves a lot to be desired. Reasons are  variously attributed to corruption, a lack of will in the government, poor technical expertise and environmental planning, and a lack of support from the religious authorities.

While going past one of the two Ghats dedicated to the funeral rites, I had seen pyres burning on the steps. I also saw devotees immersing the ashes here. Five metres away I saw people washing their clothes and I also saw some devotees taking a dip amidst all this. 

During one of the boat rides, I happened to mention about all this to the boatman taking us. I had told him, “Yeh sahi nahin hai. Idhar he jala rahein hain, asthiyan baha rahein hain aur idhar he kapde dho rahein aur naha bhi rahein hain”. (“This is not correct. They are burning the pyres, immersing the ashes and five metres away they are washing clothes as well as bathing. This is very unhygienic”. The reply I received from the boatman was, “Yeh aapka mann ka vaihem hai sahib. Yeh Ganga hai. Yahan sab pavitra ho jata hai”. (“This is your false notion Sir. This is the Ganges. Everything gets purified”). 

I just looked on………and thought, this is what makes India so different.

The other thing that I noticed which I thought could have been much better organised was witnessing the evening Aarti from our boats. There were at least about 40 to 50 boats which had got devotees to witness this lovely event. Unfortunately, there was no order at all. The boats were jostling for space and the principle of ‘might is right’ prevailed. In order to afford their customers a better view, the boatmen were edging and shouldering away each other. In fact, in one of our neighbouring boats one of the ladies got badly injured as the side of another boat hit her. Besides all this, the boats are not hand rowed any longer. They are all powered by Yamaha Outboard motors which belched out poisonous diesel fumes right through. The air was filled with fumes and we had to take out our handkerchiefs and cover our noses. It would be a good idea to, maybe, take a mask along. The administration would be well advised to bring about some order to this.

P.S - Would have loved to have shared some of the videos taken by me of the amazing performances. But unfortunately the files were too big and the blog would have become too heavy.